Swing by Prime 68, JW Marriott Marquis Hotel

Swing on by Prime68’s gastro-gluttonous journey through a Prohibition-era themed à la carte brunch. If you want sophistication, classical cocktails served in theatrical clear tea jugs, infectious jazz and the finest food….all served with a breathtaking daytime view from the world's tallest hotel….I believe you may have come to the right place. But shhhh,…..it’s a secret.

The Food

Upon arrival, we were presented with a menu the size and shape of a paving slab and advised by the general manager to “pace ourselves” with a wry smile across his face…”your going to try everything”. We then realized what he meant as he went onto explain that the Brunch consists of 37 courses……..yes 37!!! All served a la carte to your table. And if that wasn’t enough to stun me into silence, each course was accompanied by a suitably named and equally robust mini cocktail. (Examples in the drinks section below)…the tears of expectant euphoria were forming at an alarming rate.

Each course arrived beautifully presented on small, immaculate white plates starting with a basket of signature Cornbread’s and rolls, a classic Caesar Salad, A Tomato and Avocado Salad, a Shrimp Cocktail, a Beetroot and Goats cheese salad, and the tastiest devilled eggs and caviar I have ever tasted. Each dish was large enough to stand out on their own as an individual tapas sized dish, but combined as a whole course was just magnificently executed. I also like the idea that 2 of each were brought out for gorgers like myself. (Joey doesn’t share food! Circa Friends 2004)

Next up came a number of small but gratifying plates. A selection of charcuterie including Smoked Duck Breast, Beef Chorizo and Air Dried Bresaola Beef with accompanying pickles, mustards and Potato Salad. All perfectly lovely, but I felt as though we were still in the warmup rounds. That would soon change as plates were cleared and the next set out crockery was brought over….ding ding…..the next round of dishes included Boston Lobster Chowder, Wagyu Meatballs, New Orleans Crabcake, Braised Corn Beef Hash and Oysters Rockerfeller. Powerhouses of classic American cusine which were divine to the last bite and on any normal day would satisfy to deliver a knockout punch to all but the most battle-hardy eating champions….but not today.

Although the number of dishes were plentiful, the creative plating and astute timing of the intervals in which food and drink arrived at our table helped tease the eyes and the stomach into greeting each arrival with a groan of glee, rather than one of dismay. And so…….ding ding, onto the heavyweight round of Pan Seared Beef Filet, Slow Cooked Ribeye and Braised Shortribs from the carvery, and Salmon en Croute, Halibut on a Cedar Plank and Lobster Baked Clams from the fishmonger. I would be doing the usual bit part players of side dishes a dis-service if they also did not gain an honourable mention here: the Maple-Glazed Carrots, Roasted Garlic Mash, Sauteed Green Beans, Steak House Fries and Mac n’ Cheese complement the main stars without stealing their thunder as any great Robin does for his Batman.

Coming onto the home stretch, and almost as if to show off its heavy gourmet muscles, we are served Hot Smoked Salmon with Rye Chips and Cream Cheese Caviar and Foie Gras Terrine which as you can imagine is a magnificent blend of flavors but far too late in the day to enter the epicurean rave which was going on inside my ever-expanding belly.

We lurched into the dessert section with trepidation, by which point I was stuffed but Mrs Brunch made a point of trying a little of each (for research purposes) and because they all looked exquisite. Again, the format was a mini selection of Lemon Layer Cake, Slow Cooked Cherry Cheese Cake, Chocolate whoopee Pies, Pineapple upside down Cake and the classic Chocolate and Peanut Butter Cupcakes.…at the end of the food we were offered a “Cup of Joe” which in line with the theme naturally means either a Kentucky Coffee (Makers Mark, Coffee and whipped cream) or an Irish Hot Chocolate (Baileys, Hot chocolate and whipped Cream)

The Drink

There are 3 packages available, including a Standard Package: AED 495 per person including house beverages, The Sparkling Package: AED 595 per person including Prosecco, and for those feeling particularly gangster, The Champagne Package: AED 695 per person including Champagne.

All packages ofcourse include the aforementioned Tea-pot cocktails which accompany the abundant and unremitting food courses. Examples of the few we noted were the Lindy Hop (Vodka, Triple Sec, PEACH Syrup, Iced Tea), The Charleston (Vodka, Rum, Cointreau, Lemon Juice, Iced Tea), the Razzmatazz (Kettle One Citron, Cointreau, Raspberry Syrup, Lemon Juice) and the Side Car (Remy VSOP, Cointreau and Lemon Juice)

The Atmosphere

The sheer white leather booths contrast with the jet black tables and vine-like crystal beads, draped from the mirrored ceiling enclosing each booth in its own semi-seclusion. This both adds to, and detracts from the atmosphere at the same time. Part of the fun of a brunch is the people watching and social interaction with other diners, and the fact that everything is brought to your table leaves you feeling like a baby on a high chair being spoon fed…albeit with first class baby food.

There is a “dress up corner” which includes mobster and gangsters moll wigs, cigars and other accessories that naturally becomes busier as the “teas” flowed. The private room on the far side of the restaurant also seemed to be a bit more lively than the rest of the restaurant as would naturally be the case with a large group of 15-20+ locked in a room enjoying the prohibited moonshine. The fits of laughter which escaped the room intermittently upon the furious scurrying of waiters opening and closing the door to ferry in more supplies intrigued us to the point where we eventually left our table and joined them!

This brunch is a very “new” Dubai….Decadently Indolent. If you so desire, and if your bladder withholds, you can journey through the 37 courses from the glory of your 68th floor seat, without having to move a solitary muscle. It’s a grown-up afternoon of indulgence with bubbles on tap, jazz throughout the lounge and no screaming kids to be seen. With a little bit more of a party vibe, you could almost be transported to a scene from The Great Gatsby.

By the end of the brunch we leave feeling extremely satisfied with the service from the wait staff and the manager who came over to explain the concept and a few choice dishes. Our stomachs delighted, the only thing they need to provide is a wheelbarrow to get us to the elevator.

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